How To Choose The Best Camera For Beginner Bird Photography

When it comes to choosing the best camera for beginner bird photography you've undoubtedly have some questions. The great news is that birds and other wildlife can easily be photographed on a wide variety of cameras. Thus, there's likely a camera that will fit your budget for your bird photography needs.

That being said, beyond price there are a number of things you should consider. In fact, unlike other articles which simply rate cameras and make money off of links to buy them this article will help you understand the differences so you can make an informed choice.

Choosing The Best Camera For Bird Photography

If you want to choose the best camera for bird photography that you can afford then you need to understand the following key things. In fact, these things will help you determine if a camera will fit your needs.

1. Sensor Size
2. Focal Length
3. Maximum Aperture
4. Dynamic Range
5. Vibration Reduction/Stability
6. Optical Quality
7. Ergonomics

A Word on Used Cameras and Lenses

When it comes to bird photography or any type of wildlife photography there is nothing at all wrong with buying used gear. In fact, used cameras and lenses, especially those made in the last 10 or so years are great. Whereas you will get some additional features with newer cameras, newer used cameras typically offer more bang for the buck. So, if money is an issue, (and when isn't it), then consider shopping used.

Sensor Size

Most digital cameras come in one of two sensor sizes. First, there is the less expensive "cropped" sensor. This sensor is smaller and generally won't have as good low light capabilities or the ability to blur the background as much. In addition, the smaller size can make it harder to see your subject. That is, when compared to a "full frame" sensor.

Our second sensor size is a full frame sensor. To be clear, there are other options, but they're rare and/or expensive. So, full frame sensors are the same size as a 35 mm piece of film. Therefore, if you've ever seen a film negative or a piece of slide film they're the same size as a full frame sensor.

Full frame sensor cameras have larger viewfinders making it easier to see your subject. Too, that size helps you see if they're in focus more easily. Additionally, they'll perform better in lower light. Plus, you can crop your photos more easily with the bigger sensor.

Sensor Size Vs. Megapixels

Camera manufacturers spent a lot of money marketing cameras based on their number of megapixels. So, it's important to understand what they are. This is especially true when comparing them to sensor size.

Megapixels is just a count of the number of pixels. Whereas more might seem better, there is a point where this number becomes less important. That number is around 24.

If you've got an at least 24 megapixel camera you're not going to benefit greatly by upgrading to a 45 or 60 megapixel camera. In fact, if you're choosing between a 50 megapixel cropped sensor camera and a 24 megapixel full frame camera go with the full frame sensor.

Why?

Shoving more pixels into a tiny space means they need to be smaller and smaller. At a certain point this stops being advantageous. As a result, it's better to focus on a bigger sensor rather than more megapixels.

Focal Length

Focal Length is basically how much magnification your lens will provide. Birds and other wildlife are not easy to get close to. Therefore, you want a lens that will give you some additional reach.

Focal length is measured in millimeters. So, the bigger the number the greater the magnification. For example, a 12 mm lens offers a really wide angle of view. Whereas, a 800 mm lens can fill nearly your whole frame with the moon. That 12 mm lens will leave you squinting to see the moon.

There's no absolutely right answer to what the focal length should be. However, if you're buying a camera with a cropped sensor then look for at least a 200mm lens but 300, 400, or longer optical zoom is key.

I mention optical zoom because some cameras offer additional digital zoom which results in a big drop in image quality. Therefore, pay attention to what the optical zoom is.

Maximum Aperture

The camera's aperture determines how much light is let in. The bigger the maximum aperture the more light the camera can capture. When it comes to bird photography a large maximum aperture will help you freeze them in flight. In addition, it will help when lighting conditions are not great.

Aperture can be confusion because it's a fraction. Therefore, the smaller the number the more light the camera allows in. So, a camera (or lens) that has a max aperture of 2 lets in a lot more light than one that whose max is 4. Like I said, it can be confusing.

Focal Length vs Max Aperture

In addition, the longer the focal length the smaller the aperture is likely to be. For example, a 400 mm lens with a max aperture of 2.8 will cost tens-of-thousands of dollars. Whereas as a 400 mm lens with a max aperture of 5.6 will be much more affordable. In fact, my go-to bird photography lens is the Sigma 150-600 mm zoom lens. It's maximum aperture is only 6.3 at 600 mm. That means it doesn't allow in a lot of light. However, it costs less than $1,000. In fact, at the time of writing you can get one used for around $800.

Dynamic Range

Dynamic Range is the range of light the camera can capture before falling off to absolute black and white. When it comes to choosing a beginner bird photography camera this is important.

First, you're likely to photograph birds in a variety of lighting conditions. So, on bright days with a lot of shadows, you want to make sure you're capturing the details of the bird both in the light and in shade.

For example, say you're photographing a Snowy Egret in the sun against a dark background. The more dynamic range your camera has the more detail you'll see in this bright white bird and in the shadows behind it without needing to worry.

Finding Your Camera's Dynamic Range

That being said, dynamic range isn't something that's always easy to find. Therefore, narrow down your choices of cameras to a few. Then, search for their dynamic range. Dynamic Range is measured in "stops" of light. The more there are the bigger the dynamic range.

For example, some slide film only had 4 or 5 stops of dynamic range. It was great for producing really high contrast. However, it was a nightmare if you wanted to collect detail in both the sunlight and shade.

Our eyes see 18 to 20 stops of light. Therefore, getting a camera that is closer to that number will ensure that what you photography is closer to how you see the scene.

 Vibration Reduction/Stability

VR or stability is marketed differently by different camera makers. That said, just like dynamic range, it's measured in stops. The bigger the number the better the camera performs to stop any vibration or motion blur from occurring.

Every photo requires light. As we discussed above, the aperture controls how much light comes in all at once. However, we also need a specific amount of time to let the sensor record that light.

Large lenses like those typically used to photograph birds and other wildlife with their smaller apertures can require more time than you can hold the camera still for. Therefore, having vibration reduction will help stabilize the camera and lens. As a result, you won't have blur from moving the camera (as much).

In camera vs lens stabilization

There are two types of stabilization. Some cameras come with in body, often called IBIS stabilization. However, some don't but their lenses do. In addition they don't always play nice together so some cameras turn off their in body stabilization and let the lens take control.

Why does this matter?

Imagine that you're out buying a camera and lens. You find a lens that has vibration reduction. You find two cameras that will work with that lens. The first camera has IBIS. The second camera doesn't. If they're otherwise equal and the second one costs less then go with that one.

Optical Quality

When it comes to photographing birds you want a sharp lens with good optical quality. First, because you might need to crop in and don't want to loose sharpness. Second, because when you get that amazing photo you're going to want to print it large. Finally, because poor optical quality can be incredibly frustrating.

Lens Sharpness

All lenses have different sharpness profiles. Most are really sharp in the center and begin to be less sharp at the edges. However, some are worse than others. Therefore, when you're choosing a lens for beginner bird photography make sure that you check out the lens's sharpness profile online.

In addition to sharpness you want to watch for two other things - distortion and chromatic aberration.

Distortion

In rock-n-roll distortion can be very enjoyable. However, in photography you want as little as possible. All lenses have some distortion. In fact, if you use Adobe Lightroom it can correct the distortion of most lenses automatically. The less expensive the lens the more likely it is to suffer distortion. That said, this isn't always true. While an 11-16 mm lens won't help with beginner bird photography I own a Tokina 11-16 mm that has practically zero distortion. In fact, it's massively better and cheaper than the closest Nikon version.

Chromatic Aberration

Chromatic Aberration can cause purple fringing (or sometimes blue or green) around areas of high contrast. The cheaper (or older) a lens is the more likely it will suffer from chromatic aberration. Additionally, you might have other issues related to the coating on a lens that can reduce contrast or cause other issues. So, be sure to look up information about each lens you're considering.

Ergonomics

Last but certainly not least to consider is ergonomics. In fact, if you want to have hours and years of great bird photography then owning a comfortable to use camera and lens is very important.

I mentioned the 150-600 mm Sigma lens that I own. That lens is fairly heavy. In addition, I use a really heavy monopod. I'm a big guy. Therefore I don't mind hauling this stuff around. That said, if I were not an ogre I would look for lighter alternatives.

Additionally, as a big dude, I've got big hands. So, I like my big chunky cameras. In fact, I own a Nikon Z6II that is too small for me in many ways.

Check the weight of any camera and lens you're buying. In addition, make sure to hold the camera you're choosing as your beginner bird photography camera. After all, the last thing you want is to find yourself feeling frustrated or tired of the camera before you're otherwise ready to leave.

In Conclusion

I hope this guide to buying a beginner bird photography camera helped. By the way, a lot of this is applicable to other nature and wildlife camera buying. I wish you all the best in capturing amazing bird photos. If you need any assistance then consider signing up for a consultation or a private lesson. In addition, I'm planning a bird photography class with the Pittsburgh Botanic Garden for later winter or early Spring. Be sure to check that out if you're a photographer near Pittsburgh.

If you found this helpful then please let me know.